You’re standing in your garage at 11 PM, staring at the wall, holding a $600 charger in one hand and a tape measure in the other. Your beautiful new EV sits there, silent and waiting. But you’re frozen because you know this isn’t just about mounting a box on drywall. This is a semi-permanent, expensive decision that’ll either make your life seamless or create a daily frustration you’ll curse every single time you come home.
The internet’s full of advice that contradicts itself. One forum screams “mount it by your electrical panel to save money!” Another insists “put it where your charging port is, obviously!” Your neighbor swears by the garage door spot. Meanwhile, electricians quote you wildly different prices, and you’re terrified of spending $1,500 only to realize six months later you picked the wrong wall.
Here’s the truth most guides miss: the “best” location isn’t about following some universal rule. It’s about understanding the specific collision between your garage’s reality, your car’s quirks, and how you actually live. We’re going to walk through this together, cutting through the noise to help you choose the one spot that won’t haunt you later.
Keynote: Best Location for EV Charger in Garage
The optimal garage EV charger location balances your vehicle’s charging port position, electrical panel proximity, daily traffic patterns, and future multi-EV household potential. Prioritize port-side placement over panel-adjacent installation to minimize cable crossing hazards and create effortless daily charging routines that last years.
That Sinking Feeling: Why This Decision Carries So Much Weight
The hidden cost nobody warns you about upfront
That $1,200 installation quote? It can easily become $2,500 if you pick wrong. Every 10 feet of wire run from your electrical panel adds roughly $150 to $300 in materials alone. We’re talking 6-gauge or 8-gauge copper wire at $2 to $4 per linear foot, plus conduit, labor, and the electrician’s time threading everything through walls or along ceiling joists. A 50-foot run versus a 15-foot run? You’re looking at $500 to $1,500 in additional costs just for that distance difference.
But the real cost isn’t just installation day. Relocating a hardwired Level 2 charger means tearing into walls, running new conduit, patching drywall, and basically doing the entire install over again. Poor placement creates daily annoyance that compounds over years of ownership. You might find yourself avoiding parking inside altogether, which defeats the whole point of having home charging infrastructure.
And here’s what nobody mentions: wrong spot might completely block you from adding a second charger later when your spouse inevitably wants an EV too.
The emotional load of “getting it right” with permanent things
There’s something uniquely stressful about decisions you can’t easily undo. This isn’t rearranging furniture or trying out a new paint color you can change next weekend.
It’s the same anxiety as choosing where kitchen cabinets go during a remodel. You know you’ll see this decision every single day, and there’s that nagging fear of looking foolish when friends visit and see an awkward cable routing across the entire garage floor. One colleague told me his daughter’s bike hit the charging cord for the third time in a week because he’d mounted the charger too far from where they actually park.
But imagine the relief six months from now, when you pull in after a long day, reach for the cable without thinking, and plug in with zero hassle. That’s the feeling we’re aiming for.
The Core Truth Most Electricians Won’t Tell You First
Your life happens in the cable path, not the wire run
Think of it like routing a garden hose across your yard versus running a water line underground. The underground route might be harder to install initially, but you’re not tripping over it while mowing the lawn every week.
Electricians naturally think about getting power from Point A (your electrical panel) to Point B (the charger) as efficiently as possible. That’s their job, and they’re good at it. But you’ll live with the charging cable’s daily path from the wall unit to your car’s port, crossing your walking routes, storage zones, and door swings every single night for the next decade.
The shortest electrical run often creates the longest, messiest cable path across your garage. A cable stretched diagonally across your workspace becomes an invisible tripwire in the dark when you’re carrying groceries, wrangling kids, or dodging bikes. You navigate that space daily, sometimes multiple times.
Here’s the thing: the extra $300 in conduit and wire now prevents $3,000 in frustration, near-trips, and eventual relocation costs later. I’ve seen it happen too many times.
Start at the charge port, work backward to the wall
Every EV manufacturer puts the charging port in a different spot, and that completely changes everything about optimal charger placement. This isn’t some minor detail you can ignore.
| EV Port Location | Best Wall Zone | Cable Crosses Garage? | Backing In? |
|---|---|---|---|
| Front driver side (Ford, Chevy) | Front left wall or side wall | Minimal | Either works |
| Rear driver side (Tesla) | Back wall or side wall | Minimal | Back in ideal |
| Front center (Nissan Leaf) | Front wall centered | None | Pull in best |
| Passenger side rear (BMW, Mercedes) | Right side or back wall | Can cross if wrong side | Back in required |
Park your car exactly how you normally would tonight and mark the port location with painter’s tape on the wall. Measure with an actual tape measure, not guesses, from that port to potential charger mounting spots. Most charging cables from manufacturers like Tesla Wall Connector, ChargePoint Home Flex, and JuiceBox run between 18 and 25 feet, but shorter is almost always safer and tidier.
Picture yourself using this setup when you’re sick, injured, pregnant, or elderly. Picture it in winter darkness at 9 PM after a terrible day at work. If it feels awkward now during daylight planning, it’ll be worse then.
The Five Real Zones: Which One Matches Your Garage’s Personality?
Zone 1: Right next to your electrical panel (the cost optimizer)
This is where your electrician wants to install because it’s fastest and cheapest for them, not necessarily easiest for you long-term.
When it actually works:
Your panel happens to sit on the wall near where you naturally park, and your car’s charge port aligns beautifully with this location by pure luck. Or you’ve got a single-car garage with the panel on the back wall and you’re driving a rear-port EV like a Tesla, backing in every night. In these scenarios, you’re maximizing budget and minimizing electrical work to the $700 to $1,000 range. Installations positioned right near the electrical service panel typically run 30 to 40 percent lower in cost than cross-garage wire runs.
When it becomes your daily nightmare:
The panel sits on the opposite side from where you actually park or where your charge port lives. Now your cable must stretch across the entire garage width, creating a permanent tripwire that blocks your path to the house door, laundry area, or tool storage. It limits flexibility if your next car has the port on a completely different side, which is more common than you’d think.
Zone 2: Directly beside your car’s charging port (the convenience champion)
This is the “I want charging to feel effortless” choice, and honestly, it’s what most EV owners wish they’d done after living with a compromise location for six months.
The cable hangs neat and short, maybe just 6 to 10 feet from wall to port. There’s no crossing walkways, no floor clutter bunched up by your tires, no tangled mess you’re constantly kicking out of the way. It feels luxurious, like having a charger custom-designed for your exact car and parking pattern.
You may pay $300 to $800 more for the longer wire run from your panel to this ideal spot. But installing the charger on the same side as your vehicle’s port minimizes hassle and prevents unnecessary cable stretching that creates wear points and eventual cable failure.
Zone 3: Near the garage door (the flexibility wildcard)
If you ever park outside, have guests who need charging, or want maximum adaptability, this spot deserves serious consideration even though most guides ignore it completely.
A charger near the garage door can reach a car parked inside and potentially a car sitting in the driveway outside. This becomes critical if you sometimes leave your EV outside due to space constraints, weather considerations, or having visitors. It keeps the charger visible right when you pull in, so you actually remember to plug in instead of walking inside and forgetting until morning.
The downside? This location is often furthest from your electrical panel, so installation costs can hit the highest range. Near-door installations may run $1,800 to $2,500 if your panel sits on the opposite wall, depending on how your electrician routes the conduit.
Zone 4: Central wall between two parking bays (the future-proofer)
This is the chess player’s move, thinking three years ahead when your spouse inevitably decides they want an EV too.
One charger with a 24 to 25 foot cable can reach both parking spots by alternating which vehicle charges each night. This prevents having to install a second full EVSE charging station with its own separate 240-volt dedicated circuit. The strategy works by backing cars in strategically so the charge ports face the charger wall, taking advantage of the J1772 connector’s cable reach.
It requires careful measurement and a longer cable than single-car setups need. You’ve got to measure the distance to both potential charge port locations before committing to this approach, making absolutely sure both spots fall within that cable’s comfortable reach.
Zone 5: The ceiling-mounted maverick (the space-saver solution)
Most people never even consider this option, but for cramped garages with wall-to-wall shelving, tool chests, water heaters, and storage, it’s genuinely genius.
Ceiling mounting completely eliminates the floor cable problem, preventing tripping hazards for kids, pets, and anyone walking through in the dark. It requires a retractable reel system to manage the cable drop, which adds $200 to $400 to your overall setup cost. Installation gets more complex and may not work in garages under 9 feet in height.
But the ultra-clean aesthetic it creates really shines for resale value when you eventually sell the house. Future buyers see a professional, thoughtful installation rather than cables snaking across walls.
The Hidden Variables That Swing Your Decision Hard
Your garage’s electrical reality check
Not all electrical panels can handle adding an EV charger without some serious upgrades. Level 2 home chargers pull 30 to 50 amps continuously while charging overnight, which is substantial sustained load.
| Current Panel Size | Can Handle EV Charger? | What’s Required | Typical Cost Impact |
|---|---|---|---|
| 60-100 amp (older homes) | Probably not safely | Full panel upgrade to 200A | Add $2,000-$4,000 |
| 150 amp (1990s-2000s) | Maybe, needs assessment | Possible sub-panel or upgrade | Add $800-$1,500 |
| 200 amp (modern standard) | Yes, with dedicated circuit | New 40-50 amp circuit | Standard $700-$2,500 |
You need a dedicated circuit that doesn’t share capacity with other appliances, outlets, or lighting. GFCI protection is required by the National Electrical Code, adding complexity and cost to the installation process. Old homes were designed when electricity demands were a fraction of today’s needs, before we had electric dryers, central air conditioning, and now electric vehicles all running simultaneously.
According to NEC Article 625, EV charging equipment must meet specific safety requirements including proper circuit protection and grounding.
The moisture enemy you can’t see coming
Garages trap humidity from cars bringing in snow melt, rain, floor drains, and seasonal temperature swings in ways you don’t consciously notice day to day.
Corrosion builds on electrical connections over months, eventually tripping GFCI sensors randomly and creating intermittent charging failures that drive you absolutely crazy trying to diagnose. Keep your charger a minimum 18 inches above the floor per NEC code requirements. This height prevents potential ignition of flammable vapors from gasoline, paint thinners, or other volatile chemicals stored in garages.
Avoid mounting on walls near water heaters, washing machines, utility sinks, or floor drain areas where moisture concentrates. Even corners that seem “dry” near garage doors can get condensation during rapid weather changes or when warm cars enter cold garages.
The WiFi dead zone problem for smart features
Modern EV chargers from brands like ChargePoint, JuiceBox, and Wallbox track energy usage, schedule charging during off-peak electricity rates to save money, and send completion alerts to your phone. But only if they can actually maintain a connection to your home network.
Many garages act like mini Faraday cages, with metal garage doors, foil-backed insulation, and concrete walls blocking router signals from the main house. Test your phone’s WiFi signal strength in your proposed charger spot before anyone drills holes or runs conduit. Walk around with your phone’s WiFi analyzer and see where you actually get reliable connectivity.
Hardwired chargers tend to be more reliable overall than plug-in NEMA 14-50 outlet versions, but some smart features simply won’t work at all without consistent network connectivity for firmware updates and remote monitoring.
Safety code requirements that aren’t optional
These aren’t suggestions from overly cautious building inspectors trying to make your life difficult. They’re life-safety rules with real consequences for ignoring them.
All electrical work requires a licensed electrician and proper permits, which typically cost $100 to $200 depending on your municipality. DIY installation of 240-volt circuits violates electrical code everywhere and may void your homeowner’s insurance policy entirely if something goes wrong. Insurance companies can and do deny fire claims when they discover unpermitted electrical work.
You need proper clearance from combustible materials like stored gasoline cans, paint supplies, or propane tanks. Can’t route cables under closed garage doors or through any pinch points where repeated door operation could damage insulation. And 240-volt electrical work can cause fires, serious injury, or death if done incorrectly by someone who doesn’t understand load calculations and grounding requirements.
The Catastrophic Mistakes That Turn $1,000 Setups Into $3,000 Regrets
Letting the electrician choose the spot for you
Electricians will default to whatever location makes their job easiest and fastest, not what makes your daily life best over the next decade.
They naturally gravitate toward the panel wall to minimize their labor hours and material costs, because that’s how they keep bids competitive and maximize their own profit margins. This approach can leave charging cables stretched across main doorways or primary walking paths in ways that seem fine on installation day but become infuriating after the 200th time navigating around them.
The extra conduit cost for routing to your truly ideal location is tiny compared to years of nightly frustration. Show up to the initial quote meeting with your preferred spot already marked clearly with painter’s tape on the wall. This guides the entire conversation and establishes that you’ve actually thought about daily usage patterns, not just electrical efficiency.
The extension cord temptation that seems harmless
Your charging cable is six feet too short to comfortably reach. It’s tempting to just grab that heavy-duty extension cord from the shed. Don’t do it. Not even once.
Extension cords cannot safely handle the continuous 30 to 50 amp load that EVs demand during hours-long charging sessions. This creates serious fire hazards from overheating at connection points where the plugs meet, and along the cord itself as resistance builds up. It immediately voids your charger’s warranty and violates electrical code in every jurisdiction.
If your cable reach is borderline, either move the charger mounting location closer to where you actually park, or buy a charger unit that comes with a longer cable from the factory. Don’t jury-rig a dangerous solution to save a couple hundred dollars.
Assuming your existing outlet will work fine
That RV outlet or electric dryer plug in your garage might look similar to what you need for EV charging, but it’s probably configured wrong and potentially dangerous for continuous use.
Homes built before 1996 often have ground-less NEMA 10-30 outlets instead of the modern grounded NEMA 14-50 configuration that proper Level 2 charging requires. Even if the outlet looks correct, the circuit behind it might not be sized appropriately for the continuous charging load that EVs demand, which differs significantly from the intermittent loads dryers and RVs create.
Some outlets simply can’t handle the sustained current over multiple hours every single night, causing dangerous overheating over time that degrades the outlet, the wiring, and creates fire risk. Always have your electrician verify the circuit breaker rating, wire gauge, and outlet specifications match your specific charger’s requirements before assuming anything will work.
Buying charger first, planning location second
This is like buying furniture before measuring your doorways to see if it’ll actually fit, and yet people do it constantly with EV chargers because of sales and discounts.
Many heavily discounted chargers come with shorter 16-foot cables that won’t physically reach your ideal mounting spot, forcing compromises. The choice between hardwired versus plug-in portable chargers has completely different installation requirements, costs, and flexibility implications that affect location options.
Higher-amperage chargers like 48-amp models versus 32-amp versions need different wire gauge and breaker sizes, which changes cost calculations significantly. Future-proofing your installation means considering the next decade of EV ownership, not just today’s immediate need to charge one specific car.
Your Real Garage: Working With What You’ve Actually Got
Single-car garage (squeezed but solvable)
Space is at an absolute premium in single-car garages, so every inch of planning matters more than in spacious two-car setups where you’ve got flexibility.
Prioritize the side wall opposite your main storage shelves if the charging cable can comfortably reach from there. Keep the charger offset slightly from direct center to allow your car door to open fully without hitting the unit. Use slim, low-profile cable management hardware to avoid constantly bumping the cable holster against hanging tools, bikes, or seasonal storage.
About 60 percent of US homes have relatively tight single-car garages under 12 by 22 feet, which means most people are solving this exact spatial puzzle. Consider ceiling mounting seriously if your walls are completely covered with water heaters, utility panels, storage cabinets, and workshop equipment.
Two-car garage (planning for the “someday” second EV)
Even if you don’t have a second electric car today, the odds are decent you’ll have one within five years as more models launch and used EVs become affordable.
Mount your charger on the front wall between the two parking bays, positioned roughly near where the tire line falls when cars are parked. This positioning allows one charger to serve either bay by strategically backing in or pulling in depending on which vehicle needs charging that night. Leave adequate wall space beside your current unit for a future second charger installation or a load-sharing splitter device.
Run oversized conduit right now, even though it costs slightly more upfront. Installing 1.5-inch conduit instead of the minimum 0.75-inch size enables adding a second charging circuit later at a fraction of the cost, since the pathway is already established through walls and ceiling spaces.
Tandem or deep garage (avoiding the “blocked-in” trap)
When cars park front-to-back instead of side-by-side, the front car can completely block the back car’s access to the charging cable and create a nightly juggling routine.
Consider mounting on a side wall at the midpoint of the garage depth so either vehicle can plug in without pinning the cable under the other car. Map out different parking rotation scenarios for how you’ll alternate overnight charging between vehicles. Wall-mounted cable hooks and holsters keep the floor clear along long side wall runs and prevent cables from getting run over.
If both vehicles in your household are EVs or will be soon, you might genuinely need two separate chargers at different depth points along the garage to avoid the constant car-shuffling dance.
Odd layouts with columns, low ceilings, weird nooks
Sometimes architectural quirks that initially seem like obstacles actually become your secret advantage with creative thinking.
Structural columns and support posts create natural cable parking zones on their short side walls where cables hang out of main traffic flow. Tucking your charger near the door leading into your house means you see the status lights every time you walk in, which serves as a visual reminder if you forgot to plug in.
Low ceilings under 7 feet might require side-mounting the charger instead of typical chest-height installation, but that’s perfectly fine from both code and practical perspectives. And if your indoor garage walls are completely impractical or full, outdoor-rated weatherproof chargers are an option for covered exterior mounting near the garage door.
Walking Through Your Decision With Actual Numbers
Step 1: The 15-minute garage audit you can do right now
Park your car exactly how you usually do after work or running errands, not some idealized perfect alignment you’ll never actually maintain. Use painter’s tape to mark where your charge port sits when you transfer that location to the nearest wall. Pace out the distance from your electrical panel to that tape mark with an actual tape measure and write it down.
Walk your normal paths from car to house door, to trash cans, to tool storage, and note every spot where a floor cable would cross your route. Take photos on your phone of the garage from multiple angles so you can reference them later when talking to electricians or making final decisions.
Step 2: The cost reality calculator
Get actual installation quotes from licensed electricians, not just internet estimates, because every garage differs dramatically in layout, existing electrical capacity, and local permit requirements.
Standard installations positioned near your electrical panel typically run $700 to $1,200 including labor, materials, conduit, and permits. Mid-distance runs spanning 20 to 30 feet from the panel jump to $1,200 to $1,800 for the additional wire, conduit routing, and labor time. Complex installations with far distances, difficult routing through finished spaces, or panel upgrades hit $1,800 to $2,500 or more for the complete setup.
Each additional 10 feet of distance from your panel typically adds $150 to $300 in wire and conduit costs alone before factoring labor. If your home needs a full electrical panel upgrade to safely support EV charging loads, add $2,000 to $4,000 to any of the above installation ranges.
Step 3: The three-scenario test
Force yourself to actually compare your top contender locations against each other with real scoring criteria instead of just going with gut feeling.
| Factor | Panel Wall | Port Wall | Center Wall |
|---|---|---|---|
| Daily convenience | ★★☆☆☆ | ★★★★★ | ★★★★☆ |
| Installation cost | ★★★★★ | ★★☆☆☆ | ★★★☆☆ |
| Future flexibility | ★★☆☆☆ | ★★☆☆☆ | ★★★★★ |
| Cable management | ★★★☆☆ | ★★★★★ | ★★★★☆ |
| Resale appeal | ★★★☆☆ | ★★★★☆ | ★★★★★ |
Score each wall location you’re seriously considering against these five factors. Weight the factors by your personal priorities and your actual household situation, not some generic advice. The wall location with the highest total score becomes your confident recommendation to present to electricians during quote meetings.
Take clear photos of your top choice with measurements marked in painter’s tape and text those to installers before they arrive so they can prepare accurate bids.
Step 4: The future-proof questions you must answer honestly
Think beyond just today’s car and today’s household situation, because things change faster than you expect.
Will you or your spouse have a second EV within 5 years? If the answer is “maybe,” treat it as “yes” for planning purposes. Could your next EV have the charge port on a completely opposite side from your current car? It’s more common than you’d think with different manufacturers. Any chance you’ll move houses and want to take your charger with you instead of leaving it for the next owner?
Do guests, family members, or friends ever visit who might need occasional charging access? These questions completely change which location makes the most sense strategically.
Real Stories: What Actually Worked (And What Didn’t)
The front-port solution in a tight space
My neighbor Jessica drives a Mustang Mach-E with the charging port on the front driver side in a tight single-car garage that barely fits her car and some storage shelves. Her electrical panel sits on the back wall, which would’ve been the cheap and easy electrician’s choice.
She chose the port wall instead despite the 35-foot wire run that boosted her installation cost to $1,400 for hardwired installation. But five months later, she tells everyone it was the best decision she made during the whole EV buying process. Charging takes literally 10 seconds each night because the cable hangs on a neat hook right where she needs it, never crossing her walkway to the house door.
“I don’t even think about plugging in anymore. It’s just muscle memory now,” she said last week while we were talking over the fence.
The two-car future-proof centerline strategy
Tom has a standard two-car garage with his electrical panel on the left side wall. His family was considering a second EV within the next couple years but weren’t certain about timing.
He mounted his ChargePoint Home Flex charger centrally on the front wall with the full 24-foot cable. It can reach either parking bay depending on which car backs in for overnight charging. When his wife got a Tesla 18 months later, the setup was already perfectly positioned to serve both vehicles by alternating charging nights.
Total installation cost was $1,550, but he completely avoided a second full installation that would’ve run another $1,200 to $1,500. The money he saved covered their first year of home electricity increases from EV charging.
The “I did it wrong” cautionary tale
James installed his Level 2 charger right next to his electrical panel to save $400 on the wire run length, following his electrician’s recommendation without thinking it through.
His Chevy Bolt’s charge port sits on the opposite side of the garage, which meant the cable had to stretch the entire garage width diagonally across the floor. It became a constant tripping hazard that prevented him from using his workbench area, and guests complained about the danger every time they visited.
He eventually spent another $1,200 relocating the charger to the proper port-side location after eight months of frustration. The $400 he “saved” initially disappeared, plus he spent $800 more than just doing it correctly the first time. Research shows that roughly 23 percent of EV owners end up relocating their home charger within the first two years due to poor initial placement decisions.
Don’t be James.
Conclusion: Your New Garage Reality
You’ve moved from staring paralyzed at an empty wall to understanding exactly how your garage’s electrical reality, your car’s specific charge port, your daily routines, and your future flexibility all intersect in one decision. This isn’t about following some one-size-fits-all rule from a manual written by people who’ve never seen your garage. It’s about crafting a seamless experience where plugging in becomes as thoughtless as hanging your keys on the hook by the door.
Most EV charging happens at home, which means this one spot you choose shapes your daily electric driving experience more than any public fast charger network ever will. The difference between “pretty good” and “absolutely right” is the difference between mild daily frustration and complete peace of mind. The Department of Energy provides comprehensive guidance on home charging infrastructure that can help you understand the broader context of residential EV charging as you make your decision.
Here’s your action step for today: Park your car where it sleeps tonight. Grab painter’s tape. Mark an X on the wall where your charge port actually sits when parked normally. Take a photo with your phone. That single mark is your North Star. Once you see that physical spot marked in tape, your perfect charger location will suddenly feel obvious, and you can walk into electrician quotes with confidence instead of confusion.
Remember, you’re not just installing a charger. You’re removing one more decision from your evening routine so coming home can feel effortless.
Best Place to Install EV Charger in Garage (FAQs)
How close does an EV charger need to be to the electrical panel?
No specific distance required by code. However, every 10 feet of additional distance from your panel adds approximately $150 to $300 in wire and conduit material costs, plus extra labor time for running longer circuits. Most residential installations work fine anywhere from 10 to 60 feet from the panel, but expect installation costs to increase proportionally with distance. The sweet spot balances electrical efficiency with your car’s actual parking location.
What side of the garage should I install my EV charger?
Install on the same side as your vehicle’s charging port location. Tesla models have ports on the rear driver side, Ford and Chevy EVs typically on the front driver side, and some luxury brands on the passenger side. Matching the charger wall to your port side keeps cables short, neat, and prevents them from crossing your entire garage floor. Check your specific vehicle’s manual or simply park and see where the port actually sits relative to your walls.
Can I install an EV charger on the opposite side from my electrical panel?
Yes, absolutely. It requires longer wire runs and costs more initially, but often creates a far better daily charging experience. The additional $300 to $800 in installation costs is minor compared to a decade of tripping over cables stretched diagonally across your garage. Prioritize convenience and safety over minimizing upfront electrical costs, because you’ll interact with this charger twice daily for years.
Do I need my charger on the same side as my charging port?
Not strictly required, but strongly recommended. Most EV charging cables range from 18 to 25 feet in length, which gives you some flexibility. But cables that stretch more than 15 feet from wall to car create clutter, trip hazards, and wear faster from being dragged across garage floors repeatedly. Shorter cable paths mean faster plug-in times, less cable management hassle, and cleaner overall appearance that makes your garage actually usable for other purposes.
How do I know which side my car’s charging port is on?
Check your vehicle’s owner manual or simply walk outside and look. Most manufacturers place ports strategically based on their design philosophy. Tesla integrates them into the rear driver-side taillight area, Ford and GM usually on the front driver-side fender, Nissan Leaf has a front-center location, and European luxury brands often use the passenger side. Once you know your port location, optimal charger placement becomes immediately obvious.